›› Installation Questions 

The optimal installation has the shortest distance between system components. Long runs of tubing produce pressure loss due to tubing resistance. 

You can increase the distance between components of your water system but you will loose some water pressure & production. Pressure lost in long tubing runs reduces overall system performance. If you hav a long distance to go between components or connection points, please consider using 3/8 tubing instad of the 1/4 inch tubing provided . We stock 3/8 tubing . What about going up stairs from the basement? You lose one pound of water pressure for every 2.3 ft you run tubing uphill.

When installing a drinking water system with a pressurized storage tank:

The best results come from installing the tank on the same level as your most common usage. (You can install the tank downstairs, but you will lose some delivery pressure.) 

You can install the tank in the rafters of the basement, The tank may lay down,or stand up no difference in performance. etc.  

Placing the R.O. system in the basement is OK.  Install it at eye level. Some customers build a shelf and secure the unit to the basement wall.

The important thing is the distance from the system to the sink Gooseneck faucet .

 Final filter on drinking water units:

The optimal install is with the removal and placement of final filter so the water does not have to go back down to the final filter after the tank.

You will need some additional fittings for this call or e-mail.

Drain line: Can run up, but again you will loose some pressure.

Note 

• If you have to run tubing over 10 ft (drain vs. product water) it

  *The further you run tubing across any distance the greater the pressure loss due to tubing resistance.

     (Maximum recommended run 50Ft)

     When running tubing up (ie basement to kitchen) you encounter losses due to gravity and tubing resistance. 

  * For any tubing run over 10 ft we recommend using 3/8 inch tubing

• Electric Drill

• 1/4" Drill bit for Drain saddle and mounting to wall

• 9/16 inch drill bit for faucet mounting hole

• Sharp Utility knife or our tubing cutter for cutting the i/4 inch tubing. tubing

The membrane vessel has a cap at one end and a connection.  Remove the tube turn the cap to the left. The cap will come off and the old membrane will be visible.

You can use pliers or some other tool to grab and pull on the plastic membrane
product tube. Now you only need to pull for about an inch. After that inch the
membrane will fly out if you keep pulling. Take the new membrane out of the
bag, lubricate the o-rings at the end with water proof silicone lubricant.
If you do not have any silicone, use some dish soap. The dish soap will make
the o-rings slippery enough to install them correctly. Insert the membrane into the
membrane vessel, make certain that it seats in the connection at the bottom. The
membrane should fit just about flush with the end of the vessel, when correctly seated. Replace
the cap and reconnect the tube.

Now to the flow restrictor: The other end of the vessel has two connections.
One waste the other pure water. Locate the waste water line follow it and
see if you have a flow restriction device on it. If you find the device
replace it with the new correctly sized flow restrictor. The arrow points to the drain.

If you do not find one it is because the flow restrictor you have in inside
of the drain tube. Remove the drain (waste) tube at the membrane housing and inspect it for a
funky little piece of tubing and a small cap. Remove this in-line flow restrictor. Reconnect the tube to the membrane housing .
Then install the new flow restrictor on the waste water line.
Arrow pointing toward drain.